Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Parrots and Plucking
I get emails regularly from people having issues with their birds that have started plucking their feathers out. We have also recieved many parrots here are PASO that come in varying degrees of plucking.
It is a very common problem with birds and probably as many causes as there are pluckers!
There are some known issues that can cause plucking and some birds can be helped. However there are those that continue to pluck although everything has been tried. I am going to try and cover as much information as I can here to help those that can be help as well as my own personal thoughts on those that can't be helped.
If your bird recently started to pluck, the first thing to do is have the bird vet checked to determine if any health issues are causing the plucking. Sometimes treatment alone can help.
The next step would be to determine to the best of your ability the whens, hows, wheres and whys the plucking may have started in the first place. If you can determine this then changes in that environment may help.
Some reasons birds plucks (this is only a partial list):
Diet Lack of Toys
Allergies Too Small of a cage
Illness Change in environment
Boredom Something added to the area that may appear
Stress scary to the bird
New Baby/person in home Vitamin Deficiency
Change in routine New furniture/changes in the environment
New Bird in the home Someone in the home teasing the bird
Loss of mate/favorte person Lack of Sleep
Extended alone time One bird plucking another (usually breeders)
Hormones Parasites
Thyroid Lack of Bathing
As you can see the list is large and still incomplete but these things should be looked at and considered when trying to determine the reason your bird may be plucking.
The best way to work with this list is to determine if any of these things have happened or are happening and then make any appropriate changes where possible. If the bird continues to pluck, move on to something else until all options have been exhausted.
Once a bird does pluck, it can very easily turn into a habit. Habits are difficult to break but not impossible. Some times a change in environment is enough to stop the plucking. Providing preening toys can also help. Preening toys are a toy that can simulate a feather or simulate the feeling they would get by plucking their feathers. Toys made of string, straws, newspaper etc. make good preening toys and the birds can pull, snip and shred them which should help to preoccupy them and keep them away from their own feathers.
I should also point out here that there are a couple different types of plucking:
Snipping/Barbering - is where the bird would chew or remove pieces of the feather. In my experience I see this as more common in hormonal plucking but can be anything else also. You can tell a snipper as the feather ends would be v-shaped where the bird has bitten off the piece of feather. Some birds snip until all the feather is removed. Some only snip the ends of the feathers.
Plucking - Some birds will suddenly become totally bald at a moments notice. Some pluck certain areas only ie neck, back, legs, breast or under the wing. Some only pluck to the down leaving the downy feathers. Some pluck to total baldness.
Mutilating - This is the extreme end of plucking when the bird actually chews at their skin causing lesions and bleeding. It should not be confused with chewing a blood feather where a sign of blood can be seen.
Before we go on to how to stop feather plucking I feel that I would like to add my own personal two cents here as I do not believe in treating birds in the manners listed below for several reasons (with the exception of mutilating). First what I feel is more important is to find the cause. In the event that all options are exhausted and no cause can be found, I feel it is more important to make sure the bird is happy, healthy, eating well and is well adjusted. I personally feel that as long as those issues are met the feathers may return on their own. If not as long as the birds is happy and healthy and birds physical appearance is very far down on my list of important issues.
Some people just can't deal with having a bird that does not look perfect. I would like to say that a bird can be both happy and bald!
Care for pluckers
There are several options that can be used for plucking birds but each does come with their own set of dangers. The trauma experienced by wearing these appliances can be even more detrimental than having a plucking bird.
Collars
Collars are sometimes used to treat feather pluckers by placing the collar around the birds neck which stops them from reaching the feathers thus stopping the plucking. However birds do tend to become depressed while in their collars. Some have been known to get high fevers as well. Another thing that should be watched for are ingrown feathers. If the collars are not removed for periods of time the feathers can become ingrown causing pain and infections. Birds in collars must be watched carefully to ensure they are eating and can still move around without difficulty.
Another form of collar would be a sock with the toes cut out that would be placed around the neck. This would be much easier on the bird but also has its concerns. Watch that the sock is always loose around the neck and that any loose threads are removed. Socks that get wet tend to tighten so care must be taken to ensure that it is always loose. Some of the pulled threads can also tighen the sock around the neck so great care should be taken to ensure this does not happen. Ingrown hairs are another concern as is making sure the bird does not get caught on something that could cause strangulation
Vests/Flight Suites - Bird vests/flight suits are something that have also been tried. The problem with manufactured vests are the birds inability to defecate. The excrement is caught in the suit requiring regular cleaning and then cleaning of the birds vent. Again concerns of ingrown hairs unless the flight suit removed regularly.
Pluck No More - is a product by King's Cages. We have not had any success with this product but have heard of others that have. One word of advice, make sure to follow the instructions exactly as the bottle asks including the use of distilled water.
The stress level of the bird wearing any of the above items will be much greater as it is not natural for them to wear anything over their feathers or be restricted.
We have had about a 70% success rate in helping pluckers over come their problems just by changes in their environment, ensure proper dietary care and lots of out of cage time.
It is a very common problem with birds and probably as many causes as there are pluckers!
There are some known issues that can cause plucking and some birds can be helped. However there are those that continue to pluck although everything has been tried. I am going to try and cover as much information as I can here to help those that can be help as well as my own personal thoughts on those that can't be helped.
If your bird recently started to pluck, the first thing to do is have the bird vet checked to determine if any health issues are causing the plucking. Sometimes treatment alone can help.
The next step would be to determine to the best of your ability the whens, hows, wheres and whys the plucking may have started in the first place. If you can determine this then changes in that environment may help.
Some reasons birds plucks (this is only a partial list):
Diet Lack of Toys
Allergies Too Small of a cage
Illness Change in environment
Boredom Something added to the area that may appear
Stress scary to the bird
New Baby/person in home Vitamin Deficiency
Change in routine New furniture/changes in the environment
New Bird in the home Someone in the home teasing the bird
Loss of mate/favorte person Lack of Sleep
Extended alone time One bird plucking another (usually breeders)
Hormones Parasites
Thyroid Lack of Bathing
As you can see the list is large and still incomplete but these things should be looked at and considered when trying to determine the reason your bird may be plucking.
The best way to work with this list is to determine if any of these things have happened or are happening and then make any appropriate changes where possible. If the bird continues to pluck, move on to something else until all options have been exhausted.
Once a bird does pluck, it can very easily turn into a habit. Habits are difficult to break but not impossible. Some times a change in environment is enough to stop the plucking. Providing preening toys can also help. Preening toys are a toy that can simulate a feather or simulate the feeling they would get by plucking their feathers. Toys made of string, straws, newspaper etc. make good preening toys and the birds can pull, snip and shred them which should help to preoccupy them and keep them away from their own feathers.
I should also point out here that there are a couple different types of plucking:
Snipping/Barbering - is where the bird would chew or remove pieces of the feather. In my experience I see this as more common in hormonal plucking but can be anything else also. You can tell a snipper as the feather ends would be v-shaped where the bird has bitten off the piece of feather. Some birds snip until all the feather is removed. Some only snip the ends of the feathers.
Plucking - Some birds will suddenly become totally bald at a moments notice. Some pluck certain areas only ie neck, back, legs, breast or under the wing. Some only pluck to the down leaving the downy feathers. Some pluck to total baldness.
Mutilating - This is the extreme end of plucking when the bird actually chews at their skin causing lesions and bleeding. It should not be confused with chewing a blood feather where a sign of blood can be seen.
Before we go on to how to stop feather plucking I feel that I would like to add my own personal two cents here as I do not believe in treating birds in the manners listed below for several reasons (with the exception of mutilating). First what I feel is more important is to find the cause. In the event that all options are exhausted and no cause can be found, I feel it is more important to make sure the bird is happy, healthy, eating well and is well adjusted. I personally feel that as long as those issues are met the feathers may return on their own. If not as long as the birds is happy and healthy and birds physical appearance is very far down on my list of important issues.
Some people just can't deal with having a bird that does not look perfect. I would like to say that a bird can be both happy and bald!
Care for pluckers
There are several options that can be used for plucking birds but each does come with their own set of dangers. The trauma experienced by wearing these appliances can be even more detrimental than having a plucking bird.
Collars
Collars are sometimes used to treat feather pluckers by placing the collar around the birds neck which stops them from reaching the feathers thus stopping the plucking. However birds do tend to become depressed while in their collars. Some have been known to get high fevers as well. Another thing that should be watched for are ingrown feathers. If the collars are not removed for periods of time the feathers can become ingrown causing pain and infections. Birds in collars must be watched carefully to ensure they are eating and can still move around without difficulty.
Another form of collar would be a sock with the toes cut out that would be placed around the neck. This would be much easier on the bird but also has its concerns. Watch that the sock is always loose around the neck and that any loose threads are removed. Socks that get wet tend to tighten so care must be taken to ensure that it is always loose. Some of the pulled threads can also tighen the sock around the neck so great care should be taken to ensure this does not happen. Ingrown hairs are another concern as is making sure the bird does not get caught on something that could cause strangulation
Vests/Flight Suites - Bird vests/flight suits are something that have also been tried. The problem with manufactured vests are the birds inability to defecate. The excrement is caught in the suit requiring regular cleaning and then cleaning of the birds vent. Again concerns of ingrown hairs unless the flight suit removed regularly.
Pluck No More - is a product by King's Cages. We have not had any success with this product but have heard of others that have. One word of advice, make sure to follow the instructions exactly as the bottle asks including the use of distilled water.
The stress level of the bird wearing any of the above items will be much greater as it is not natural for them to wear anything over their feathers or be restricted.
We have had about a 70% success rate in helping pluckers over come their problems just by changes in their environment, ensure proper dietary care and lots of out of cage time.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
News
I have again been elected to the Board of Directors for the Durham Avicultural Society and am proud to say I am the editor of the monthly bulletin.
I will have regular monthly articles as well as I am looking for additional articles to keep the bulletin full of new information.
If you have any articles or a topic you would like covered, please feel free to email me at nancy@parrotadoptontario.com and we will try our best to include it.
Nancy
I will have regular monthly articles as well as I am looking for additional articles to keep the bulletin full of new information.
If you have any articles or a topic you would like covered, please feel free to email me at nancy@parrotadoptontario.com and we will try our best to include it.
Nancy
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Foot Care and Parrots
We see many parrots arrive at the rescue with feet in poor condition. Some worse that others. However most of it is preventable.
Arthitis in the Feet
Cause - bird sits on same perch day in and day out with little or no movement making walking painful and perching difficult. This makes gripping difficult and painful.
Spiraled/Sharp Nails
Cause - Lack of grooming makes walking and perching difficult. Nails can also grow in a manner that they grow into another part of the foot cause great discomfort for the bird. Spiralled nails forces the bird to have to wrap the spiral around the perch before they can grip it. The nails can get caught in the carpeting and in some instances break off and bleed.
Sharp nails can be painful for both the parrots and ourselves as they love to sit on our arms. Sharp nails also tend to get caught in things. By regular filing of the nails we help prevent overgrowth as well as remove the pain associated with sharp nails.
Sores and Callus
Cause - lack of various perching materials and little or no movement from the bird in or outside of the cage.
Splayed Leg
Cause - not enough bedding materials in the nest box.
PREVENTION
Most of these can be prevented by taking some very simple steps. Even those with these conditions already will benefit from the use of the following and most times a reversal in the symptoms can occur.
Grooming
Regular grooming of the nails can help prevent spiraled nails and will bring attention to any other issues that may have taken place. Nails should be groomed at least once every six months. The foot should also be inspected for callus, sores or any irregularities.
Perches
Perches of various sizes and shapes will help your parrot exercise his feet as the movement from different size perches will help him grip better and keep the feet limber. Small as well as large perches should be offered as the parrot will be excercising his feet by moving from one perch to the other.
Perches of various materials will also help with the parrots grip and will help prevent callusing from forming as well as sores developing. The variety of perches helps them from getting too much wear on their feet from one perch type, Cement, sand or calcium perches help to also keep the nails dull making holding the bird less painful from the sharp claws. Rope perches are soft on the feet and are good for birds having a hard time gripping to other smoother materials.
Washing
Birds feet should be cleaned regularly as it is easy for them to step in feces within their own cages. The feces tends to stick to the feet which can result in infection.
Foot Toys
Toys that the parrot can hold in his foot should also be offered. These will give him hours of enjoyment as well as excerise by holding and playing with the items offered.
Splay Leg
Although we do not breed we have recieved birds at the rescue with splayed legs. It's quite upsetting to see a bird that can not use it's legs due to something so preventable. When the babies are first born we need to ensure that there is enough bedding in the cage so that the babies can place their legs down straight. If splay does develop the two legs can be tied together for a few days which can solve the problem. It would be well worth the time to investigate splay leg and cures on the internet as it is quite preventable with the birds are young but results in expensive surgeries as the birds age.
Arthitis in the Feet
Cause - bird sits on same perch day in and day out with little or no movement making walking painful and perching difficult. This makes gripping difficult and painful.
Spiraled/Sharp Nails
Cause - Lack of grooming makes walking and perching difficult. Nails can also grow in a manner that they grow into another part of the foot cause great discomfort for the bird. Spiralled nails forces the bird to have to wrap the spiral around the perch before they can grip it. The nails can get caught in the carpeting and in some instances break off and bleed.
Sharp nails can be painful for both the parrots and ourselves as they love to sit on our arms. Sharp nails also tend to get caught in things. By regular filing of the nails we help prevent overgrowth as well as remove the pain associated with sharp nails.
Sores and Callus
Cause - lack of various perching materials and little or no movement from the bird in or outside of the cage.
Splayed Leg
Cause - not enough bedding materials in the nest box.
PREVENTION
Most of these can be prevented by taking some very simple steps. Even those with these conditions already will benefit from the use of the following and most times a reversal in the symptoms can occur.
Grooming
Regular grooming of the nails can help prevent spiraled nails and will bring attention to any other issues that may have taken place. Nails should be groomed at least once every six months. The foot should also be inspected for callus, sores or any irregularities.
Perches
Perches of various sizes and shapes will help your parrot exercise his feet as the movement from different size perches will help him grip better and keep the feet limber. Small as well as large perches should be offered as the parrot will be excercising his feet by moving from one perch to the other.
Perches of various materials will also help with the parrots grip and will help prevent callusing from forming as well as sores developing. The variety of perches helps them from getting too much wear on their feet from one perch type, Cement, sand or calcium perches help to also keep the nails dull making holding the bird less painful from the sharp claws. Rope perches are soft on the feet and are good for birds having a hard time gripping to other smoother materials.
Washing
Birds feet should be cleaned regularly as it is easy for them to step in feces within their own cages. The feces tends to stick to the feet which can result in infection.
Foot Toys
Toys that the parrot can hold in his foot should also be offered. These will give him hours of enjoyment as well as excerise by holding and playing with the items offered.
Splay Leg
Although we do not breed we have recieved birds at the rescue with splayed legs. It's quite upsetting to see a bird that can not use it's legs due to something so preventable. When the babies are first born we need to ensure that there is enough bedding in the cage so that the babies can place their legs down straight. If splay does develop the two legs can be tied together for a few days which can solve the problem. It would be well worth the time to investigate splay leg and cures on the internet as it is quite preventable with the birds are young but results in expensive surgeries as the birds age.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Parrots and Noise
I have received birds in the rescue for many different reasons. One of the most common is due to the noise they make.
What I have found interesting is an individual’s tolerance level varies from person to person.
Some have brought budgies to us they felt were too loud for them and others the almighty voice of the cockatoo!
All birds will make noise. It is in their nature to make noise when they are happy, sad, bored or when they want food. Parrots make noise just as a baby cries. They also need to make noise as it is natural for them to call home their flock and welcome in the new day!
They will do it when it's inconvenient, like while we are watching TV, trying to hold a conversation or talking on the phone. You can count on it! It is something that needs to be taken under consideration when you own a parrot. If you tolerance for noise is low, then a parrot is NOT a good choice for you!
How we chose to deal with the noise is up to us. We can get mad and frustrated or we can learn to live with it and make it a part of everyday life.
I know that people have asked my husband and I how we can stand the noise as we typically will carry on a conversation even with parrots squawking in the background.
We have learned to tolerate the noise and to live with it. Although not easy for strangers that come to the house or people without birds to understand how we do it, it is part of our life and this is what we do and is now so natural for us we don't even notice it any longer.
This is not to say that they squawk incessantly as most of the time it is actually quiet around here. They have certain moments like anything. They get excited when visitors arrive or if we have been away for a period of time. They get loud when we are eating dinner as they would love to sit and enjoy it with us!
The trick I use during dinner is to feed the birds at the same time we eat. It makes dinner time much more enjoyable!
There is a difference between everyday noise in which we NEED to learn to tolerate and excessive.
Excessive noise would be continuous non stop noise for hours on end when the bird has everything from food, water and toys and has had playtime with his family.
We can teach birds to scream incessantly by our own reactions to a birds screaming.
First we have to make sure that the bird’s needs are fulfilled. It's had playtime, food, water and has plenty of toys to keep him busy.
If he continues to scream, you should ignore it. Even if the screaming persists just ignore it. As I tell visitors here if the bird screams non stop for 20 minutes then suddenly you either yell at him to stop or you go and check on him the bird just won! Next time he will scream longer and longer.
If you can't deal with the noise go out for a walk! Just don't acknowledge the screaming for one second!
Within few days you will see the bird screaming less and less.
As soon as the bird has been quiet for a minute or two reward him with a treat and tell him how good he is for being quiet. Make sure to always praise your parrot during positive moments and reward with treats.
Never pick your bird up when he is screaming as it is only rewarding negative behaviour.
When you have been away for a prolonged period of time your bird will make sounds of joy in seeing you. This is not the same as screaming. It is important that you differentiate between the different sounds the bird makes.
Happy sounds are quite normal and can be acknowledged. There are also moments when we will scream right along with the birds and join in the fun with them. As long as the bird is not incessantly screaming it is fine to enjoy these moments with the bird.
I have heard many horror stories of pet stores telling new owners to squirt the bird with a water bottle. Let me tell you that that is NOT the way to train a bird. All that does is teach a bird to fear water which will make bathing much more difficult. It is also a form of torture! If you ask people that have tried this method they will tell you that it doesn't work anyway!
We have also found people that will cover their bird when they are being loud. This is also not a good idea. You are acknowledging the bird during his screaming. Then covering him when he is actually looking for attention is more of a punishment than anything. Removing him from the room is also detrimental to his well being.
We have found people that have moved the birds into the back of the home and left them in the dark covered and alone. This is no life for a bird. They are such social creatures and want to be part of your flock.
We only hope that if you find yourself using these steps that you either bring the bird to us or start over and bring them back to the family and allow then to be a part of the family.
Before getting a parrot, spend some time around some. In a pet store, at a bird club, zoo or a friends place with birds. Determine if this is something you can live with.
Another important thing to remember is where you live. If in an apartment, condo or highly populated area where noise travels then you aren't going to want a conure, cockatoo or macaw. You are sure to get an eviction notice! Stick to some of the quieter species of birds like the cockatiel and lovebird. It must be remembered that they also make noise and can go on for prolonged periods of times however the decibel level is much lower. Some people can't even tolerate the noise from these smaller birds and neighbors have been known to complain even about some of these.
Some birds by nature can be quiet just as we all have our own personalities so do many different birds of the same species. There are tendencies within the species but even some of the largest birds can be quiet by nature. However to find a quiet cockatoo, although they do exist is quite rare!
The most important thing is to determine your own tolerance level and that of your family as not everyone will agree. Then find a bird that suits your life style. If you presently have a bird, then start today! Make sure he has his wants and needs fulfilled and then ignore the negative. It may take a little longer but eventually the bird will quiet down.
What I have found interesting is an individual’s tolerance level varies from person to person.
Some have brought budgies to us they felt were too loud for them and others the almighty voice of the cockatoo!
All birds will make noise. It is in their nature to make noise when they are happy, sad, bored or when they want food. Parrots make noise just as a baby cries. They also need to make noise as it is natural for them to call home their flock and welcome in the new day!
They will do it when it's inconvenient, like while we are watching TV, trying to hold a conversation or talking on the phone. You can count on it! It is something that needs to be taken under consideration when you own a parrot. If you tolerance for noise is low, then a parrot is NOT a good choice for you!
How we chose to deal with the noise is up to us. We can get mad and frustrated or we can learn to live with it and make it a part of everyday life.
I know that people have asked my husband and I how we can stand the noise as we typically will carry on a conversation even with parrots squawking in the background.
We have learned to tolerate the noise and to live with it. Although not easy for strangers that come to the house or people without birds to understand how we do it, it is part of our life and this is what we do and is now so natural for us we don't even notice it any longer.
This is not to say that they squawk incessantly as most of the time it is actually quiet around here. They have certain moments like anything. They get excited when visitors arrive or if we have been away for a period of time. They get loud when we are eating dinner as they would love to sit and enjoy it with us!
The trick I use during dinner is to feed the birds at the same time we eat. It makes dinner time much more enjoyable!
There is a difference between everyday noise in which we NEED to learn to tolerate and excessive.
Excessive noise would be continuous non stop noise for hours on end when the bird has everything from food, water and toys and has had playtime with his family.
We can teach birds to scream incessantly by our own reactions to a birds screaming.
First we have to make sure that the bird’s needs are fulfilled. It's had playtime, food, water and has plenty of toys to keep him busy.
If he continues to scream, you should ignore it. Even if the screaming persists just ignore it. As I tell visitors here if the bird screams non stop for 20 minutes then suddenly you either yell at him to stop or you go and check on him the bird just won! Next time he will scream longer and longer.
If you can't deal with the noise go out for a walk! Just don't acknowledge the screaming for one second!
Within few days you will see the bird screaming less and less.
As soon as the bird has been quiet for a minute or two reward him with a treat and tell him how good he is for being quiet. Make sure to always praise your parrot during positive moments and reward with treats.
Never pick your bird up when he is screaming as it is only rewarding negative behaviour.
When you have been away for a prolonged period of time your bird will make sounds of joy in seeing you. This is not the same as screaming. It is important that you differentiate between the different sounds the bird makes.
Happy sounds are quite normal and can be acknowledged. There are also moments when we will scream right along with the birds and join in the fun with them. As long as the bird is not incessantly screaming it is fine to enjoy these moments with the bird.
I have heard many horror stories of pet stores telling new owners to squirt the bird with a water bottle. Let me tell you that that is NOT the way to train a bird. All that does is teach a bird to fear water which will make bathing much more difficult. It is also a form of torture! If you ask people that have tried this method they will tell you that it doesn't work anyway!
We have also found people that will cover their bird when they are being loud. This is also not a good idea. You are acknowledging the bird during his screaming. Then covering him when he is actually looking for attention is more of a punishment than anything. Removing him from the room is also detrimental to his well being.
We have found people that have moved the birds into the back of the home and left them in the dark covered and alone. This is no life for a bird. They are such social creatures and want to be part of your flock.
We only hope that if you find yourself using these steps that you either bring the bird to us or start over and bring them back to the family and allow then to be a part of the family.
Before getting a parrot, spend some time around some. In a pet store, at a bird club, zoo or a friends place with birds. Determine if this is something you can live with.
Another important thing to remember is where you live. If in an apartment, condo or highly populated area where noise travels then you aren't going to want a conure, cockatoo or macaw. You are sure to get an eviction notice! Stick to some of the quieter species of birds like the cockatiel and lovebird. It must be remembered that they also make noise and can go on for prolonged periods of times however the decibel level is much lower. Some people can't even tolerate the noise from these smaller birds and neighbors have been known to complain even about some of these.
Some birds by nature can be quiet just as we all have our own personalities so do many different birds of the same species. There are tendencies within the species but even some of the largest birds can be quiet by nature. However to find a quiet cockatoo, although they do exist is quite rare!
The most important thing is to determine your own tolerance level and that of your family as not everyone will agree. Then find a bird that suits your life style. If you presently have a bird, then start today! Make sure he has his wants and needs fulfilled and then ignore the negative. It may take a little longer but eventually the bird will quiet down.
Labels: behavior, behaviour, ontario parrot rescue, parrot noise, parrot sound, parrots
Monday, October 15, 2007
Metal Poisoning and Pets
One of the most important issues that I can't stress enough is to research before and after getting your pet. Having rescued over 400 parrots in Ontario and placed many into new homes has opened my eyes to how sometimes simple things can have major, debilitating effects on the lives of our pets.
Today's discussion is on Metal Poisoning in parrots. Zinc is poisonous to birds so all birds toys or toy parts, cages, food bowls etc should be made from metals that are Zinc free. The best metal to use for bird toys is stainless steel as it is Zinc free. However Stainless Steel is at least double the price of other metals.
Having a parrot rescue in Ontario has prompted me to write about issues that have appeared here at the rescue. We have had two birds arrive that have both been devastated by metal poisoning in their homes. The medications to help the birds can be as dangerous as the poisoning itself not to mention extremely costly. The best cure is prevention.
We expect that toys that we purchase would be made parrot safe but given the current events coming out of China with toys for our own children being recalled, we have to investigate the toys ourselves as there are those individuals that like to cut corners or don't do their own research before designing toys for our pets. Toys made in the US and Canada and sold on Ebay have also been found to contain Zinc.
One parrot we have at the rescue was given a toy with a bell attached to it. It was purchased in a pet store specifically designed for birds. The owner assumed since it was purchased in a pet store that it would be safe for his bird. However the bird got progressively sicker and sicker until it was determined that he had contracted metal poisoning.
Upon investigation to determine the cause they found that the bell on the toy was not made of stainless steel at all! It has made of some other metal. The toy creator had cut corners to save on the cost of an actual Stainless steel bell.
Well $10,000 in treatments later and the bird has finally gotten a clean bill of health. However we have to be very careful not to introduce any metals to the bird at all. He still has feather loss but other than that he is doing much better. It was a very expensive lesson to learn!
We have another bird that came to the rescue who has had no use of her legs for the past 15 years due to the owner giving her the wrapper off a champagne bottle as a toy! It is simple little things like this that cause the majority of injuries such as metal poisoning.
Another bird who contracted metal poisoning was transported in a metal dog crate to various events. This bird used to rub his beak (a normal practice by most birds) on the bars of the cage. As the story goes he also contracted metal poisoning by introducing small shards of metal into his system.
We have a responsibility to our pets to research for ourselves and determine if the products we buy are in fact safe for our parrots. We need to contact manufacturers and ask them what materials the birds toys are made of and then check for ourselves. One way to test for zinc is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then there is definitely zinc in it. We should also research other safe metals that are zinc free. Lead is also another metal poisonous to birds. The magnet test is not the the be all and end all. There is still a chance of zinc or lead being in the item tested. We can't take it for granted that what we buy even from some of the best pet stores is safe for our pets. We need to check and double check for ourselves to ensure the safety of our parrots.
Today's discussion is on Metal Poisoning in parrots. Zinc is poisonous to birds so all birds toys or toy parts, cages, food bowls etc should be made from metals that are Zinc free. The best metal to use for bird toys is stainless steel as it is Zinc free. However Stainless Steel is at least double the price of other metals.
Having a parrot rescue in Ontario has prompted me to write about issues that have appeared here at the rescue. We have had two birds arrive that have both been devastated by metal poisoning in their homes. The medications to help the birds can be as dangerous as the poisoning itself not to mention extremely costly. The best cure is prevention.
We expect that toys that we purchase would be made parrot safe but given the current events coming out of China with toys for our own children being recalled, we have to investigate the toys ourselves as there are those individuals that like to cut corners or don't do their own research before designing toys for our pets. Toys made in the US and Canada and sold on Ebay have also been found to contain Zinc.
One parrot we have at the rescue was given a toy with a bell attached to it. It was purchased in a pet store specifically designed for birds. The owner assumed since it was purchased in a pet store that it would be safe for his bird. However the bird got progressively sicker and sicker until it was determined that he had contracted metal poisoning.
Upon investigation to determine the cause they found that the bell on the toy was not made of stainless steel at all! It has made of some other metal. The toy creator had cut corners to save on the cost of an actual Stainless steel bell.
Well $10,000 in treatments later and the bird has finally gotten a clean bill of health. However we have to be very careful not to introduce any metals to the bird at all. He still has feather loss but other than that he is doing much better. It was a very expensive lesson to learn!
We have another bird that came to the rescue who has had no use of her legs for the past 15 years due to the owner giving her the wrapper off a champagne bottle as a toy! It is simple little things like this that cause the majority of injuries such as metal poisoning.
Another bird who contracted metal poisoning was transported in a metal dog crate to various events. This bird used to rub his beak (a normal practice by most birds) on the bars of the cage. As the story goes he also contracted metal poisoning by introducing small shards of metal into his system.
We have a responsibility to our pets to research for ourselves and determine if the products we buy are in fact safe for our parrots. We need to contact manufacturers and ask them what materials the birds toys are made of and then check for ourselves. One way to test for zinc is to use a magnet. If the magnet sticks then there is definitely zinc in it. We should also research other safe metals that are zinc free. Lead is also another metal poisonous to birds. The magnet test is not the the be all and end all. There is still a chance of zinc or lead being in the item tested. We can't take it for granted that what we buy even from some of the best pet stores is safe for our pets. We need to check and double check for ourselves to ensure the safety of our parrots.
Labels: abused birds, birds, lead poisoning, metal, ontario rescue parrot, parrot rescue, rescued parrots, safe toys for parrots, toy making, zinc
Deadly Fumes
Parrot Safety - Fumes
We operate a parrot rescue in Ontario www.theparrotrescue.com and will be writing a series of articles in hopes of helping parrot owners and some of our prospective parrot rescue owners with information that is of great importance to parrots or birds in general.
Parrots are intelligent and beautiful creatures that make wonderful pets. However there are some issues that owners and those thinking of becoming a parrot owner need to make themselves aware of.
Everyone has heard the saying Canary in a Coal mine. Well that is because Miners used to bring canaries into the coal mines with them. If there was any poisonous gas to be found the canary would keel over dead within minutes and this would warn the miners of impending danger.
Canaries and birds in general have very small lungs and can succumb to many things that other animals don't.
Anything with a fragrance should not be used around parrots. I.e. Candles, aerosols, cleaning products, bug sprays, air fresheners etc.
Although there is no fragrance the following items pose a very deadly threat to parrots.
Teflon
Not just pans but ANYTHING coated with Teflon can be deadly to birds. This would include irons, curling irons, frying pans and pots. There are many items that are coated with Teflon which has recently been determined to be detrimental to humans and animals alike. There is some information recently published by DuPont on their website at www.dupont.com.
Scotch Guard
This is another product that is deadly to birds. Some birds have been known to die on the arrival of new furniture as it had recently had Scotch Guard applied to it.
The best we can offer our pets is to request that it not be applied to our furniture, carpets or drapes at all. Otherwise the next best solution is to ask that it remain in the store AFTER it has been applied for no less than a week uncovered. Once it is fully dried it should be safe to bring into the home.
It is our responsibility to ask questions of manufacturers and not expect them to know how their products impact our lives. Research is the best thing we can do for our pets.
You will find more information posted on our website at www.theparrotrescue.com
We operate a parrot rescue in Ontario www.theparrotrescue.com and will be writing a series of articles in hopes of helping parrot owners and some of our prospective parrot rescue owners with information that is of great importance to parrots or birds in general.
Parrots are intelligent and beautiful creatures that make wonderful pets. However there are some issues that owners and those thinking of becoming a parrot owner need to make themselves aware of.
Everyone has heard the saying Canary in a Coal mine. Well that is because Miners used to bring canaries into the coal mines with them. If there was any poisonous gas to be found the canary would keel over dead within minutes and this would warn the miners of impending danger.
Canaries and birds in general have very small lungs and can succumb to many things that other animals don't.
Anything with a fragrance should not be used around parrots. I.e. Candles, aerosols, cleaning products, bug sprays, air fresheners etc.
Although there is no fragrance the following items pose a very deadly threat to parrots.
Teflon
Not just pans but ANYTHING coated with Teflon can be deadly to birds. This would include irons, curling irons, frying pans and pots. There are many items that are coated with Teflon which has recently been determined to be detrimental to humans and animals alike. There is some information recently published by DuPont on their website at www.dupont.com.
Scotch Guard
This is another product that is deadly to birds. Some birds have been known to die on the arrival of new furniture as it had recently had Scotch Guard applied to it.
The best we can offer our pets is to request that it not be applied to our furniture, carpets or drapes at all. Otherwise the next best solution is to ask that it remain in the store AFTER it has been applied for no less than a week uncovered. Once it is fully dried it should be safe to bring into the home.
It is our responsibility to ask questions of manufacturers and not expect them to know how their products impact our lives. Research is the best thing we can do for our pets.
You will find more information posted on our website at www.theparrotrescue.com
Labels: fumes, ontario parrot rescue, parrot rescue ontario, parrot safety, scotch guard, teflon, theparrotrescue.com
Friday, October 12, 2007
Parrots and Toys
I have seen some strange things during our time rescuing birds and I would like to point out a few things that have just floored me when it comes to peoples thoughts on bird toys.
Here is a sample of some of the things I have heard "he doesn't like toys he just wrecks them" or "this is the only toy he hasn't destroyed". Well, birds do wreck toys. That is what they do. They use the toys to keep themselves busy and it also helps condition their beaks and nails. There are many types of toys such as preening toys, foraging toys, swings, wooden toys, leather toys, feather toys, foot toys, paper toys, you name it there are toys for just about everything. We all know toys can be expensive however this is an expense that any bird owner should count on as a monthly expense when you own a parrot. Toys should be changed regularly and if they are destroying the toy then WONDERFUL! Then the toy has fulfilled its purpose and the bird is getting exercise and conditioning and stimulation!
Toys can be made out of plenty of house hold items or even things found in the dollar store. It doesn't have to be a huge expense! Having 30 plus birds here at any given time and forced my creative juices to flow in order to keep these guys in toys.
One of my favorite secrets that I am about to share is the Goodwill Store as they typically have bins full of small rattles and plastic chains and little stuffed animals the birds love to pull apart! You can get a bag of small toys for around $2.00! The dollar store is also a great place. You can find baby blocks, plastic spindles, popsicle sticks, beads, plastic golf balls and any number of other items that can be used to make toys!
All it requires is a little imagination and within minutes you can have many different enjoyable toys for your birds.
One trick I like to use as you obviously have internet access to read this is to do Google search parrot toys and you will have more ideas then you will know what to do with!
I hear people say sometimes that their parrot does not like toys because they show no interest. There could be several causes for that. One is that they do not play with toys everyday but once in a while they will destroy a toy until it is gone. The other reason is probably because it is not the right toy!
The birds should have a variety of toys made of different items. Your parrot will probably chose one or two as a preference. If these ones are getting destroyed then they are obviously the parrots favorite and should be offered up regularly to the parrot.
Toys with paper for shredding are usually a favor for many birds. Newspaper or adding machine rolls can make a wonderful toy that the birds can spend hours destroying! Make your toys colorful and bright and they will bring plenty of hours of busy beaks to your bird.
What is even more important is to ensure that the materials you use are safe for the bird.
There are lists of safe woods posted on the site as well as an article about zinc and metal poisoning that should be read before making toys for the parrots.
Here is a list of safe materials:
- Wooden or plastic beads
- Almost anything plastic
- Adding machine rolls
- Vegetable tanned leather strips
- Stainless steel nuts and bolts
- Anything stainless steel
- Popcorn can also make great toys
- Popsicle sticks
- Wooden skewers for shiskabobs
- Plastic golf balls
- Unbleached coffee filters
- Straws
- Cotton rope or stainless steel chain can be used for threading and hanging the items
- Chunks of wood made from pine or apple branches are wonderful! Be careful about the type of woods you use. Make sure to research which are safe! Cedar is definitely NOT safe!
- food coloring or Wiltons cake icing coloring makes vibrant colors of your wood and comes in a great variety of colors!
This is only a small list but out of the list can come 100's of toys!
Some tools that can be used:
- a drill for drilling holes through wood and plastic
- scissors for cutting the ropes, leathers, straws and coffee filters
- a bowl for mixing the food coloring
- a pan for drying the objects that have been colored
- a hole punch can be used for items that do not require a drill
With the above items or even a partial list of items can make hours of enjoyment for your parrot!
I do not find toys that are indestructible to parrots of any benefit. First the birds don't typically like them, they do not help in the conditioning process and last they are extremely expensive!
There are also a few online clubs for making parrot toys. If you find you are lacking in imagination you can always join a club or purchase toys at your favorite pet store!
Here is a sample of some of the things I have heard "he doesn't like toys he just wrecks them" or "this is the only toy he hasn't destroyed". Well, birds do wreck toys. That is what they do. They use the toys to keep themselves busy and it also helps condition their beaks and nails. There are many types of toys such as preening toys, foraging toys, swings, wooden toys, leather toys, feather toys, foot toys, paper toys, you name it there are toys for just about everything. We all know toys can be expensive however this is an expense that any bird owner should count on as a monthly expense when you own a parrot. Toys should be changed regularly and if they are destroying the toy then WONDERFUL! Then the toy has fulfilled its purpose and the bird is getting exercise and conditioning and stimulation!
Toys can be made out of plenty of house hold items or even things found in the dollar store. It doesn't have to be a huge expense! Having 30 plus birds here at any given time and forced my creative juices to flow in order to keep these guys in toys.
One of my favorite secrets that I am about to share is the Goodwill Store as they typically have bins full of small rattles and plastic chains and little stuffed animals the birds love to pull apart! You can get a bag of small toys for around $2.00! The dollar store is also a great place. You can find baby blocks, plastic spindles, popsicle sticks, beads, plastic golf balls and any number of other items that can be used to make toys!
All it requires is a little imagination and within minutes you can have many different enjoyable toys for your birds.
One trick I like to use as you obviously have internet access to read this is to do Google search parrot toys and you will have more ideas then you will know what to do with!
I hear people say sometimes that their parrot does not like toys because they show no interest. There could be several causes for that. One is that they do not play with toys everyday but once in a while they will destroy a toy until it is gone. The other reason is probably because it is not the right toy!
The birds should have a variety of toys made of different items. Your parrot will probably chose one or two as a preference. If these ones are getting destroyed then they are obviously the parrots favorite and should be offered up regularly to the parrot.
Toys with paper for shredding are usually a favor for many birds. Newspaper or adding machine rolls can make a wonderful toy that the birds can spend hours destroying! Make your toys colorful and bright and they will bring plenty of hours of busy beaks to your bird.
What is even more important is to ensure that the materials you use are safe for the bird.
There are lists of safe woods posted on the site as well as an article about zinc and metal poisoning that should be read before making toys for the parrots.
Here is a list of safe materials:
- Wooden or plastic beads
- Almost anything plastic
- Adding machine rolls
- Vegetable tanned leather strips
- Stainless steel nuts and bolts
- Anything stainless steel
- Popcorn can also make great toys
- Popsicle sticks
- Wooden skewers for shiskabobs
- Plastic golf balls
- Unbleached coffee filters
- Straws
- Cotton rope or stainless steel chain can be used for threading and hanging the items
- Chunks of wood made from pine or apple branches are wonderful! Be careful about the type of woods you use. Make sure to research which are safe! Cedar is definitely NOT safe!
- food coloring or Wiltons cake icing coloring makes vibrant colors of your wood and comes in a great variety of colors!
This is only a small list but out of the list can come 100's of toys!
Some tools that can be used:
- a drill for drilling holes through wood and plastic
- scissors for cutting the ropes, leathers, straws and coffee filters
- a bowl for mixing the food coloring
- a pan for drying the objects that have been colored
- a hole punch can be used for items that do not require a drill
With the above items or even a partial list of items can make hours of enjoyment for your parrot!
I do not find toys that are indestructible to parrots of any benefit. First the birds don't typically like them, they do not help in the conditioning process and last they are extremely expensive!
There are also a few online clubs for making parrot toys. If you find you are lacking in imagination you can always join a club or purchase toys at your favorite pet store!
Labels: parrot rescue, parrot toys, safe toys for parrots, toy making
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